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Europe and Fashion: Questioning Identities and Cultures

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Musée des Arts Décoratifs

107 Rue de Rivoli

75001 Paris


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Focusing on European sartorial heritage, its collecting and its archiving practices, the conference Europe and Fashion: Questioning Identities and Cultures explores and contextualises spaces of cultural interactions, displacement and construction of national and transnational identities in the European landscape.
In recent years there has been considerable scholarly attention to the inter-relationship between geographical and national identities on the one hand and cultural production on the other hand. Historians, art historians, anthropologists and philologists among others have focused on the role of geography, borders, territories and identities for the definition and demarcation of varied artefacts and practices. We contend that fashion will benefit from a similar approach.

By assessing the current state of theory, history and practice-based research in the field of fashion studies, the conference will expand the existing knowledge on European identities and European cultures exploring the role of fashion in these cultural formations. The papers reconsider assumptions about the place of fashion in the definition of European cultures and offer new and critical perspectives on the role of fashion in relation to: individual and collective identities, European policy, colonialism and post-colonialism, cultural exchange and transmission, cultural displacement and appropriation, the fashion capital and nation, center and periphery. The papers also address heritage, archives formations and museums as catalyzers of cultural discourses, as well as explore identity formations in Europe in a wider socio-cultural context, both theoretically and historically.
The conference Europe and Fashion: Questioning Identities and Cultures involves the world-leading academic institutions, archives and museums, thus encouraging discourse across disciplinary, institutional and national boundaries.

CONFERENCE PROGRAM (download the pdf version here)

Thursday, 8 November

13.30 - 14.00 Registration

14.00 - 14.10 Welcome and presentation of the European Fashion Heritage Association, Marco Rendina, EFHA Managing Director and Adelheid Rasche, Germanisches Nationalmuseum & Chair of the EFHA Scientific Committee

14.10 - 14.15 Welcome from the host, Olivier Gabet, Director of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs

14.15 - 14.20 Intro to the conference, Marco Pecorari, The New School - Parsons Paris

Section I - Trajectories and Dialectics

14,20 - 15,00 Keynote Speech: Valerie Steele, Director and chief curator of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, NY. Paris, Capital of Fashion

15,00 - 15.20 Veronique Pouillard, University of Oslo. European Fashion: Capital and Couture in the Postwar Era?

15.20 - 15.40 Andrea Kollnitz, Stockholm University. The Power of Difference. Gender, Nation and Visual Stereotypes in European Fashion Discourse around World War I

15,40 - 16,10 DISCUSSION, Chair Adelheid Rasche, Germanisches Nationalmuseum

16,10 - 16,30 Coffee break

Section II - Establishing Identities

16,30 - 17,10 Keynote Speech: Miren Arzalluz, Director of Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. Many Identities

17,10 - 17,30 Aurelie Samuel, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris. Negotiating Identities at the Yves Saint Laurent's Museum: The conception of the exhibition 'Dreams of the Orient'

17,30 - 17,50 Gabriele Monti, IUAV University of Venice. ITALIANA: Looking for Italian Fashion

17,50 - 18,10 DISCUSSION, Chair Karolien De Clippel, ModeMuseum Hasselt

18,30 Drinks at Parsons Paris

Friday, 9 November

10.00 - 10,30 Registration

Section III - Geographies and Places

10,30 - 11,10 Keynote Speech: Giorgio Riello, Professor of Global History and Culture at the University of Warwick. Lives of Others: Global Identities and Luxury Capitalism in the Late Age of Globalisation

11,10 - 11.30 Giulia Mensitieri, University of Brussels. The precarity of the in-between: symbolic and material circulations of fashion creative workers

11.30 - 11.50 Serkan Delice, London College of Fashion, UAL. Cultural appropriation in translation: fashion, race, and the limits of critique

11.50 - 12.30 DISCUSSION, Chair Djurdja Bartlett, London College of Fashion, UAL

12,30 - 13,30 Lunch Break

Section IV - Re-modeling Identities

13,30 - 14,10 Keynote Speech: Javier Gimeno Martinez, Assistant Professor at the Vrije University, Amsterdam. Redesigning the European Fashion Map: Creativity as a Response to Crisis in Post-Industrial Economies

14,10 - 14,30 Barbara Coutinho, Museum of Design and Fashion (MUDE), Lisbon. Fashion: a culture without borders

14,30 - 14,50 Paulina Latham, Polish Cultural Institute, London. Polish Fashion and Europe: Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow

14,50 - 15,10 Judith Clark, Research Centre for Fashion Curation, UAL, London. Inside and outside tradition

15,10 - 15,40 DISCUSSION, Chair Marco Pecorari, The New School Parsons Paris

15,40 - 16,10 CLOSING REMARKS by the EFHA Scientific Board, Djurdja Bartlett, London College of Fashion; Karolien De Clippel, ModeMuseum Hasselt; Gabriele Monti, IUAV University of Venice; Marco Pecorari, The New School Parsons Paris; Adelheid Rasche, Germanisches Nationalmuseum; Federica Rossi, Museo della Calzatura - Villa Foscarini Ross

In collaboration with


With the patronage of

Ministère Culture - EYCH 2018

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Musée des Arts Décoratifs

107 Rue de Rivoli

75001 Paris


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